Coffee places: Cafe U Dvorištu

Several days after visiting 42 Coffee Co., I paid a visit to one of the older (though still relatively young) specialty coffee places in Zagreb: Cafe U Dvorištu, at the address of Jurja Žerjavića 7.

Its' name - meaning "Cafe in the yard" is well-earned. Despite its' location near the center of Zagreb, it's situated in a less-touristy area, in a quiet backyard sitting in the center of a building block. Immediately next door, there's a small roastery - Cogito Coffee Roasters - where thee coffee used by the coffee shop immediately gets roasted.

Out of all specialist coffee places I've been to so far in Zagreb, Cafe U Dvorištu seems like the most traditional Croatian cafe. There's identifiable tables, table service, and a large selection of drinks which are not coffee - and on top of that, smoking is allowed. Still, there's a huge blackboard which lists two sorts of coffee, a large La Marzocco machine, and coffee making equipment displayed.

The interior of this cafe seems vivid, and every table seems unique. I ordered a coffee with milk, which arrived soon. The taste was... umm... exactly the same as I tried in 42 Coffee Co. So just re-read that review, and pretty much everything listed there applies here.

Further investigation revealed this to be true - 42 also orders their coffee from Cogito Roasters. Of course, YMMV - the coffee there will change according to what's fresh, so you might not get the same result as I did - or as you did last time you visited one of those coffee shops.

Which still makes it one of the best coffee places in Zagreb. And if you get hungry, it's also connected (and often cross-marketed) to the "Piknik" food place next door.


Naturally, they also sell their coffee - either in bean, or ground version. Interesting trivia: Cogito Coffee blend is called "Tesla", because their location actually used to be a lightbulb factory.

Next time I go there, I should probably try their espresso... or aeropress coffee, which their also sell.

Coffee places: 42 Coffee Co.

I heard a lot of good stuff about recently opened 42 Coffee Co. so last month I decided to pay them a visit. This coffee shop is located in the center of Zagreb, at the corner of Vlaška and Draškovićeva streets just a few minutes from the central square. It got its' name from its' address (Vlaška 42).

The interior is new, and it's designed in the industrial fashion. Lots of pipes and glass everywhere. Instead of the traditional tables, there's a huge glass table in the center that can sit a lot of people. The huge blackboard with prices - seemingly one constant thing unusual in regular cafes around here but common to all Zagreb's craft coffee shops - and a La Marzocco espresso machine dominated the central counter. And just to be sure, in case you didn't notice the machine brand on the machine itself, it's proudly advertised on the cabinet the machine is sitting on.

The 42 had some items for sale - both coffee making gear, including aeropress and grinders (most of the stuff was from Hario... it was not yet on sale when I was there as prices haven't arrived), and some coffee merchandise. They also sell the coffee beans they use.

There was one thing that was missing in the coffee shop... Toilets. There are none. You need to go to the pub next door. The guys said "it's OK, we have the same owner". But yeah, still not the same as having them on the premises. It's also a smoking-allowed place, unlike Eliscaffe and Teneo. This might influence your decision to go there.

But enough with the interior. How's their coffee?

Well, they change it on the regular basis. It's freshly roasted. Your experience might vary from mine, since you'll probably get something else.

They had two on the menu: regular blend and a single origin. I ordered a regular coffee with milk. It was perfectly made, with wet microfoam that was poured as a tulip-shaped latte art.

The coffee tasted very delicate, way gentler than the coffee in Teneo or Eliscafe. It had a mild chocolaty flavor that worked very well with the milk. It had a natural sweetness, and was not bitter at all.

I had two friends with me, who tried their coffee as well. They ordered cappuccinos, which looked almost the same as my coffee with milk - only slightly whiter. However, they didn't like the coffee as much as I did - they automatically dumped the two sugar packs in it (like most Croats will do) and they found it too "weak".

One note about coffee "strength". The mild taste and the lighter color actually hinted that it is a rather light roast. Despite their mild taste, lighter roasts often have more caffeine than darker roasts. There is a disparity between the taste of the coffee and its' actual chemical composition. I certainly felt the caffeine buzz later in the evening...

The coffee I had was best described as "delicate", and it would taste best with no sugar and as little milk as possible (I haven't tried it as an espresso... I will have an espresso there the next time I visit). If that sounds like the coffee you would like - go ahead and visit them, it is made perfectly. Of course, once again - your experience might vary. They change their blends according to availability and freshness, so you might get something tasting different.

Coffee places: Teneo Coffee Shop

Teneo is a tiny coffee shop in the Trešnjevka district of Zagreb, situated near the marketplace. It's in a small kiosk right next to the tram station and the local Konzum supermarket.

It's one of the few specialty coffee shops in Croatia, and one of the most unique ones. They brew their house blend - which at the moment of tasting consisted of 40% Guatemala SHB, 20% Costa Rica Tournon, 30% Ethiopia Sidamo and 10% India Parchment AB. They also sell beans, sometimes the same as they're brewing, sometimes single-origins. Whatever they got freshest. They're not roasting themselves, but they outsource the job.

Both their beans and drinks are priced way below other specialty coffee shops, and actually on par with cheaper cafes. Besides espresso drinks, they'll also make pourover or aeropress coffee. And, unlike most coffee shops in Zagreb, they will also make a huge range of customizable coffee-based drinks, much like a mini-Starbucks: with syrups, iced, blended, with extra espresso shots, with regular, soy or oat milk, etc., all of it also available in paper cups. However, I do recommend you inquire about availability of syrups if you wish to order a drink with them - they don't always have all flavors. They also serve Tiger Spice Chai, which is a Masala Chai-like drink. Tea, spices and milk make this stuff lovely.

Cappuccino

Their espressos are made with a Gaggia machine, and they're quite flavorful. That flavor can still be felt nicely in the cappuccino, despite the fact it comes in a bigger cup than normal. You will basically get the same drink whether you order a "coffee with milk" or a cappuccino - the only thing that will be different will be the art on top.

Light wood decor, informative photos and blackboards, lots of coffee gear in the back, large glass surfaces and the use of some recycled elements (such as pallets) give the interior a feeling which is rather airy for the amount of stuff that you'll find in. If there are downsides to the place, it would be late opening and early closing times and lack of bathrooms in the coffee shop.

Teneo also organizes classes in coffeemaking and more. I already wrote about my experiences there... Since I work nearby, sometimes I go there during lunch break. It's a small and friendly place, and certainly worth visiting.

Coffee places: Eliscaffe

If you do any research about coffee places in Zagreb, Eliscaffe will probably be one of the first things you hear about. Sometimes you hear about their pioneering effort as importers and small roasters. At other times you hear about their obsession with perfection. A random comment shows up about people having the best coffee of their lives over there...

Being close to the center of Zagreb, next to the Britanski trg, or British Square it was a bit out of my way - considering I travel by car, and city center is very unfriendly to cars - but I knew I had to make my pilgrimage to the holy site sooner or later. And so I did.

It was dark when I arrived, and I wore a pea coat. Noticing all the details, taking photos of everything etc. I got a pretty cold reception, because with the way I acted (checking out everything) they thought I was financial inspection or something.

I ordered a cappuccino from their regular coffee (at the moment, an El Salvador roast), and the barista made me a cute latte art heart. A regular experience, or something to please the financial inspection :)

Before sipping the drink, I expected the best coffee in my life - and I've had good coffee before, and even excellent coffee in specialist coffee places. My expectations... were way surpassed.

They're not just better than any coffee I ever had. They're so far ahead of everyone else that there's this huge gap and nothing comes even close. Their featured coffee might change (so your experience might vary), but this was just... a perfect flavor. I was speechless. I would suggest not using the sugar, this coffee doesn't really need any.

Eliscaffe coffee is more expensive than you'll find elsewhere, but it's immediately apparent why. They also sell their coffee blends, in a bean or pre-ground - prices are quite expensive (34 kn / 125 grams, 64 kn / 250 grams), but they're still cheaper than some commercial manufacturers such as Illy.

After I paid, and the barista assured me that the receipt was legal and tax authorization numbers were there, I finally managed to convince her I'm not in fact a financial inspector. The atmosphere got much better then, and we had a friendly and open chat about coffee.

The cafe is rather small, but well decorated - with a clean industrial design, and the large blackboard which features the menu. A few Chemex brewers and Hario Buono gooseneck kettles are visible in the back, however the La Marzocco machine dominates the view. Seating is a bit limited - there's some room at the bar, and at the long shelf at the wall which runs parallel to the bar. There's no regular tables - which are a must-have item in most of Croatian cafes. The rear part contains a roasting machine and a tiny bathroom. It's a non-smoking place, and has been so since it was founded.

The menu features only a few basic coffee drinks (and a 2-person Chemex brew). The focus is on coffee. And if you like coffee, you should visit Eliscaffe. Unfortunately I didn't get to meet the owner (Nik), but there's time for that next time...

Coffee places: Not all of them are alike

In Croatia, coffee is sold everywhere you go. Every cafe or a restaurant usually has an espresso machine, and most of the same espresso drinks will be available everywhere. However, both our coffee places and even names that we use for drinks are somewhat specific to the region, and don't always match internationally recognizable names.

So here's a little guide to Croatian cafes and drinks available there. Hopefully, it will be of use both to tourists to this country and Croats traveling elsewhere, to recognize some differences.

Coffee drinks in Croatia:

• Espresso - a shot of espresso in a tiny cup.
• Macchiato - a shot of espresso in a tiny cup, with a touch of steamed milk and foam on it, similar to Italian version, not the one from Starbucks. You might need to specify "mali macchiato" (small macchiato). This is the most popular drink in many coastal areas. Sometimes it's not on menu, in that case you can still order it - it will be billed as "Kava s mlijekom".
• Kava s mlijekom - "Coffee with milk" is a shot of espresso with milk. Internationally known as flat white. In some places it's known as "veliki macchiato" (big macchiato), and some places would ask you if you want it with hot (steamed) or cold milk. This is the most popular order in Croatia.
• Cappuccino - a shot of espresso with milk and foam. A standard drink. It will usually be similar to kava s mlijekom, but contain more foam on top. Sometimes it will be decorated.
• Kava sa šlagom - espresso with whipped cream. In some places, a frozen whipped cream from Ledo is used instead.
• Bijela kava - white coffee, espresso with a lot of milk. This is usually internationally known as latte or latte macchiato. Ordered in Croatia, it will usually come in a large cup or a mug.
• Produžena kava - "lengthened coffee" is usually a long black or americano. Rarely ordered by locals. Sometimes people don't know how to make it, and simply leave the espresso machine running for a long time. These people are not your friends.

Personnel of any cafe, restaurant or whatever is usually called "konobar". It's used for waiters, baristas, bartenders and pretty much everything else unless they cook too. Remember that it's usually a minimum-wage job rather than a career decision, and the amount of their skills will vary.

Some facts common to almost all establishments:

• There's a table service and it doesn't cost anything extra.
• Menus are available at the table.
• You get free water with your coffee.
• Tips are not required or even expected, but they'll be welcome.

Establishment types:

• Cafe, bar, kavana, coffeehouse, kafić etc. - these are all standard Croatian cafes. They serve coffee, teas, soft drinks, beer, wine, liquor etc. Popular places to hang out. Almost all of them are smoking areas.
• Bistro, pivnica - like above, but they'll typically have something to eat too. Pivnica will focus on beer, but they'll also have coffee
• Slastičarna - apart from coffee, they will typically also offer pastries and ice creams to eat on spot, or to take out - these are in fact their main product, and coffee is just a bonus. Typically no-alcohol and no-smoking areas, though perhaps not if you sit outside. You can often get coffee with ice cream (usually listed as Eiscafe, Icecaffe or something similar).
• Restaurant, konoba, pizzeria etc. - almost all of them have coffee machines, as it's common for people to drink coffee after a meal (after a few minutes pass). If they're not crowded at the moment (e.g. in mornings), most of them will gladly serve you just coffee, but they won't be looking kindly at you if you sit down at their last available table and order just a coffee. Don't do that.

The price and popularity of the location are often linked. Here's what brings the price and popularity up:

• Location - more than anything, you're paying for location. The places where there are a lot of pedestrians - city centres, at the coast, shopping malls etc. often feature the highest prices.
• Decor and music selection (usually related).
• Real and perceived quality - usually by logotypes of coffee manufacturer being present everywhere.
• TV (people commonly watch sport matches in their cafe bars).

This should cover about 99% of Croatian cafes. However, there are always exceptions. Places which are different, or otherwise significant and certainly worth visiting. I will describe some of them in future articles. The link will be available at "Coffee places" link on the right side of this page.